Three French Reds: Richard Esling December 15

...two Sauvignons and a Chardonnay in the pantry! After a weekend looking after my four-year-old grandson in our family support bubble, I just couldn’t resist the new words for an old Christmas song! At least its better than his dubious versions of Jingle Bells and While Shepherds Watched…! I also made the mistake of teaching him an alternative version of We Three Kings. After rapturous laughter, the new mischievous words were sung at full volume non-stop about 55 times! Naughty but very nice! It’s a fabulous time of year for kids of all ages!

Getting back to enjoyment for the adults, some decent red wine is ‘de rigeur’ at this time of year, either with roast meats, poultry, game or strong cheese. With so many to choose from, its worth considering the grape varieties when considering your wine and food pairings. With food matching, there are no rules – drink what you like with what you like to eat. However, the match is sometimes enhanced by taking account of the strength of flavours.

More delicate flavours can be overpowered by big strong, tannic reds, needing a somewhat lighter style of wine. Pinot Noir generally speaking fits that bill, unless your pockets are very deep and you choose a Grand Cru Burgundy. The lighter style burgundies are perfect with roast turkey or a roast ham, hot or cold. The Edouard Delaunay Septembre Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2018 is just such a wine. Bags of delicious red berry fruit flavours, well-balanced acidity and low tannins make this the perfect, elegant Christmas burgundy, versatile enough to match a shoulder of lamb, slowly roasted for five hours, with rosemary, garlic and anchovies. £14.99 at the Mix six price from Majestic.

Keeping with traditional Christmas reds, the rival to red Burgundy, is of course, red Bordeaux on the other side of France. A mature bottle of good claret is incomparable, with qualities of satisfaction and comfort, much needed after the year we’ve all had. Chateau Peyrabon Haut Medoc 2009 is the perfect Christmas claret, with a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A Cru Bourgeois from the classic left bank region of Bordeaux, it comes from a great vintage and is now fully mature. Hints of tobacco and old cigar boxes on the nose, yet maintaining a freshness of ripe fruit and softened tannic structure. Wonderfully integrated complexity and a long, satisfying finish. £22 from The Wine Society. Bring out the roast goose!

Staying with the same supplier but moving to a different region of France and different grape varieties, The Society’s Exhibition Crozes Hermitage 2018 has a combination of power and subtlety that reflects the Syrah grape grown in the Northern Rhone Valley. The perfect accompaniment to roast sirloin or Beef Wellington, delicious ripe, blackberry and dark fruit flavours mingle with black pepper, spice and hints of black olives. Try a glass with a wedge of Wookey Hole cheddar or 18 month matured Davidstow from Cornwall, with some Peter’s Yard crackers. Tremendous value at £13.95 from The Wine Society.