Exceptional flavours of food and wine at The Pass Restaurant

Ben Wilkninson and team at The Pass, South Lodge Hotel & Spa

Hand dived scallop from the Isle of Mull, with squash purée, spiced with espelette pepper. A few fried almonds and pumpkin seeds. On top of the scallop a little coppa ham, and to finish a toasted almond foam, seasoned with Pedro Ximenez sherry vinegar.

Just one of the exquisite dishes created by Michelin starred chef Ben Wilkinson from what is effectively an eight-course tasting menu. Paired with an equally extraordinary white wine, an oak-aged 2019 Pinot Gris from Slovenia, chosen by the sommelier Leonard Lievin.

In my line of work, I am lucky to be able to experience many different restaurants in both Europe and the UK. In my opinion, there are those which deserve Michelin Stars and those which don’t – even though they may have been awarded. The Pass restaurant at the South Lodge Hotel in Lower Beeding is run by head chef Ben Wilkinson who has one Michelin star and from my experience there last week, deserves more. One of the best meals I have had anywhere in Europe for a long time.

The Pass restaurant is bright and modern, yet cosy and intimate, with high tables and chairs giving a great view of the careful preparations by the small, efficient brigade in the open kitchen. Forget the Gordon Ramsay television shows, everything here is calm and relaxed, with true teamwork ‘dans la cuisine’. Every dish is brimming over with complex flavours, superbly presented and served at table either by Ben himself or one of his excellent brigade, each dish carefully described and explained.

The South Lodge Hotel and Spa is part of the small …. Group of hotels, is ideally located not far from Gatwick Airport and the M23 and on the edge of the South Downs National Park. Set in several acres of grounds full of magnificent rhododendrons and other shrubs, including Botanica the Spa restaurant, there are three restaurants, the jewel in the crown being The Pass.

Leonard Lievin the sommelier, originates from the Alsace region of France and works in association with Ben to create interesting and eclectic flights of 5 wines to accompany the exceptional dishes. I was impressed once more by the knowledge and professionalism of Leonard, together with his first-class grasp of pairing flavours of the wines with the dishes.

In the Signature Wine Flight which I chose, along with the unusual yet excellent Slovenian white, there was a Pinot Noir from California, a full-bodied white from the volcanic slopes of Etna in Sicily, a deep and dark Tempranillo from Bodegas Fuentenarro in the Ribera del Duero region of Spain and one of my favourite, yet unusual, dessert wines – a sweet, fortified red Mas Amiel from Maury in the Roussillon region of southern France. This latter wine is the ultimate pairing with chocolate, a difficult task to accomplish, perfect with Ben’s Chocolate Délice, which also involved caramel, hazelnuts and raisins.

My dining partner chose some wines from the extensive wine list rather than a wine flight, one of which was an outstanding Vermentino from Corsica, selected on the perfect advice of the sommelier. All in all a perfect evening and a place for a very special treat, with not only some of the best dishes in the South of England, but an excellent sommelier on hand to guide you to the perfect wines to match.